Indonesia: An Intro

I can't wait to return to Indonesia. This summer, I experienced only a few of the country's whopping 17,000 islands, but they whet my appetite to explore more of Indonesia's incredible variety of natural wonders, cities, and cultures. Indonesia is the fourth most populous country in the world and the largest Muslim nation. Many people are familiar with Bali because of Eat, Pray, Love, but in general I've found that Indonesia isn't well known among U.S. travelers. Thus, I'm spreading the word that Indonesia has it all (beaches, volcanoes, forests, cities) and every type of accompanying activity, so you should jump on the ~22 hour plane ride and GO GO GO!

Tegallalang Rice Terraces

Bali: the island paradise that has it all

Gettin' around:

Ride-hailing apps (Uber; Grab) are illegal in Bali due to an incredibly annoying taxi cartel. Instead, you can hire drivers for entire days or in any major touristy area. When you land at Denpasar airport, be prepared to encounter a borderline harassment experience if you don't have a ride waiting, so I would strongly recommend asking your hotel/homestay/guesthouse/hostel to help you book transportation in advance. A ~1.5 hour ride to Ubud from the airport will cost IDR ~250,000 (~$18), more at night since drivers most likely won't be able to pick anyone up on the way back. If you do choose to use a ride-hailing app, walk to the top floor of airport arrivals, all the way to the left of the exit to find your driver, since they aren't allowed to enter the main arrival pick-up area.

What to bring:

• Sunscreen: UV rays don't play, and sunscreen will be expensive to buy there

• Insect repellent: DEET or citronella, because Indonesian mosquitoes will unforgivingly bite entire parts of your body

• Sarong or light scarf: useful for covering shoulders and legs, a requirement to enter holy sites

• Hat: if it unexpectedly starts downpouring and sleeting during your motorbike ride, wearing a hat will preserve your line of sight

• Sunglasses: bring or buy cheap ones when you arrive

• Hiking shoes and hiking sandals: Chacos or Tevas, since you may find yourself doing a lot of trekking (my new favorite word, basically the international equivalent of "hiking")

• Casual, active clothing: be prepared to get sweaty

Check it out:

Canggu (3+ days): surfing the waves and trendy cafes

Canggu: Where you can get a free tattoo with your tacos

• ​CALLING ALL HIPSTERS to the "Brooklyn of Bali" where, as an aspiring surfer and avid foodie, I could have happily spent a week sampling the inexpensive, healthy eats after (unsuccessfully) catching some waves. Never have I seen more trendy vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, and paleo restaurants with Instagrammable interiors in such a small radius.

• Head straight to Batu Balong beach to book a two-hour surf lesson for IDR 300,000 (~$22) or a two-hour board rental for IDR 50,000 (~$4). When you're hungry (or have given up), find strength in Poke Poke and Roti Canai Street Kitchen, next door restaurants with a shared space, so you can order from both (poke with a side of roti, anyone?!). For colorful, creative breakfast bowls and the sedentary kind of surfing, head to Crate or Betelnut Cafe. For dinner, get a sizeable salad in a beautiful outdoor garden from The Shady Shack or fill up on fresh fish from Moana (make a reservation). If you're finding it difficult to leave, take a bit of your trip home with you by attending Deus Cafe's Tattoo Taco Tuesday, where tacos come with a side of free ink!

• It's easy to forget you're in Indonesia when you're in Canggu. If cultural sites are your jam, take a short 30 minute motorbike ride north to catch the sunset at Tanah Lot Temple.

Crate Cafe in Cenggu

Ubud (5+ days): Bali's cultural center

• Located in the center of Bali, I was skeptical of spending time away from the island's beaches, but there are amazing things to do around Ubud.

• For water activities, visit one of many waterfalls, such as Tegenungan, Nung Nung, or Sekumpul, or holy springs like Tirta Empul.

• Spend a day exploring the Tegallalang Rice Terraces followed by coffee tasting at Bali Pulina Coffee Plantation. Don't leave without trying Luwak Coffee, oddly the most famous and expensive coffee in the world, because of (or perhaps in spite of) its cat poop production method.

Pulina Coffee Plantation

• Visit at least one of the many temples, such as Gunung Kawi, and be sure to pack a sarong (note: if you use Google maps to visit Gunung Kawi, you will end up in the backyard of a man who will eagerly lead you on a trek through the temple's back entrance for a small fee, IDR 30,000 (~$2)).

• Wake up at 2AM for a ~$25 guided sunrise hike of Mount Batur, an active volcano a 1.5 hours north (something I didn't have time to do, but am prioritizing for my return trip!).

• Feed monkeys at the Monkey Forest, then feed yourself while watching adorable bunnies hop around you at the nearby Maha Restaurant and Bar.

• In the afternoon, make time to shop at Ubud Art Market for straw bags, sarongs, and elephant pants. A word of advice-- if you see something you like, BUY IT. Don't try to find it somewhere else later. If you're doing a broad Southeast Asia trip, you'll see similar, but slightly different items in each country. Sarongs in Indonesia, for instance, are different than ones in Cambodia, which aren't the same as types you'll find in Thailand or in Laos. Avoid decision fatigue by going with your gut (can you tell I regret not buying more at the Art Market?!).

• For dinner, eat at Moksa Permaculture Garden for a plant-based feast for your senses.

Seminyak (1 - 2 days): resort relaxation and shopping sprees

• If dropping a lot of dough is your style, seek out Seminyak. Shopping enthusiasts will love spending hours at the seemingly endless boutiques and malls offering everything from creative housewares to unique fashions. Prices compared to the U.S. are reasonable, but expensive relative to Indonesian standards. Most importantly, tell me if you go so that I can give you my shopping list!

• Apart from shopping, Seminyak is known for day parties at beach clubs like Potato Head, and gorgeous views from rooftop bars and restaurants like Rock Bar.​

• ​There are several other cities and sites that I didn't get to visit on my first Bali trip, such as Uluwatu. This guide is just an introduction :)

Map of the Gili Islands

Gili Trawangan: drinking and diving

Gettin' around:

The Gilis are a group of 3 islands off the Northwest coast of Lombok, a large island east of Bali. You can reach the Gilis from Bali by taking a few hour boat ride, or by flying into an airport on Lombok and taking a short half hour boat from Lombok pier. Each island has a unique reputation: Gili Air is known as the chill island, Gili Meno as the honeymooner's paradise, and Gili T (Trawangan) as the party island. There are no motorized vehicles in the Gilis, but the islands are very walkable. You can also rent bicycles for IDR 30,000 - 50,000 (~$2 - 4) for 24 hours, or take small horse-drawn carriages.

How long to stay:

• At least 2 days, or longer if you're learning to dive. The beaches are beautiful, and if you take advantage of Gili T's going out scene, you'll want time to recover.

Check it out:

• Sunset at the world famous Hotel Ombak swing in the ocean

• Diving or snorkeling

• The sea turtle conservancy (sooo cute)

Hotel Ombak swing

​What to nom:

Gili T Night Market Food

• Dinner at the night market: the best (and cheapest) food on the island, located on the East side

• Regina Pizzeria: crazy good, thin-crust Italian pizza

• Nasi goreng (fried rice) and mie goreng (fried noodles): because they're Indonesian staples and they're cheap, not because they're good...

• Banana pancakes: the breakfast of choice for many Indonesians, these pancakes have an odd yet satisfying gelatinous texture that's tasty, albeit quite different from U.S. pancake

Unreal Blue Water at Nusa Lembongan

Nusa Lembongan: back to nature

Gettin' around:

Nusa Lembongan is a small island Southeast of Bali reachable via boat. The most convenient way to see the island and neighboring island, Nusa Ceningan, is to rent a motorbike for IDR 75,000 (~$6) for 24 hours. The roads are horrendous (more like gravel paths filled with potholes), so wear a helmet. In Indonesia, you don't need to put down a deposit of cash or a passport in order to rent a motorbike.

How long to stay:

• 2 - 3 days to see the main sites​

Check it out:

Private Boat through the Mangrove Forest

• Nusa Ceningan: tiny neighboring island reachable motorbiking or walking over a short bridge. Well worth the visit to have alone time at Secret Beach, for the views from an amazing lookout point, and to see the Blue Lagoon.

• Dream beach, Sunset beach: the beaches on Nusa Lembongan are rocky, craggy, and majestic-- quite different from beaches in Bali or the Gilis, but no less beautiful

• Devil's Tear bay: watch awesome mist spraying against the rocky shore

• Mangrove forest: take a private boat tour for IDR 100,000 (~$8) or stand up paddle board

Komodo and Flores Islands: floating and boating

Perhaps the easiest way to explore the Flores and Komodo Islands, home of Komodo dragons, is on a multi-day boat trip. I spent three days with Wanua Adventures sailing from Flores to Lombok Islands, with stops on Komodo and Rinca islands to see Komodo dragons, Padar island to trek to the Three Beach Lookout, where you can see white, pink, and black sand beaches, Manta Point to snorkel with manta rays, and Moyo Island to climb a waterfall. The boat life was definitely "roughing it" (no showers and only very basic meals), so I wouldn't recommend for anyone looking for Yacht-Week-style accommodations, but it's a great way to see a lot in a short amount of time. Sleeping on the deck with a small mattress pad, blanket, and ~15 other people will cost you IDR 1,800,000 (~$135), but I recommend paying IDR 2,500,000 (~$187) for a private cabin with real bed

Padar Island's Three Beach Lookout

When in Indonesia, take time to appreciate the diversity of the country, get comfortable "roughing it", and buy everything :)